In the oasis of greenery and continuously flowing water of Boswyck Farms, Lee Mandell grows fresh basil that is, in all likelihood, more delicious than any basil you have or will ever taste. “You’re not gonna get it any fresher,” he says. “You simply can’t get closer to production than this.” His basil is a “Thai lemon basil” that, when placed on the tongue, conveys hints of citrus mingling with the taste of a subtle, savory curry.
For Mandell, the way his plants taste is one of the most important considerations on this indoor farm he started seven months ago in his Bushwick loft. “It was one of the things I was most worried about when I started growing,” he says. “To me, taste is the most important test you can have. You can test for sugar content and all kinds of other things, but if your produce doesn’t pass the taste test, what’s the use?”

A section of the basil-growing area at Bosyck Farms.
But Mandell’s vision for Boswyck Farms extends well beyond his attention to the palate. For one, his growing space is not a typical garden. Instead of growing his plants in soil, Mandell grows them in water. Appropriately, this method is called hydroponic farming. Hydroponics can produce higher crop yields using less space than soil-based growing methods. Advocates such as Mandell say that hydroponics is an especially important tool for urban environments, where space is an issue. In his loft (in addition to the other-wordly Thai lemon basil) Mandell grows tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant and sweet peppers. In the fall he will start growing kale and lettuce.
Hydroponically-grown plants are kept alive with systems of circulating water that disperse nutrients to their roots. The simplest of the growing arrangements in Mandell’s apartment is made up of plastic soda bottles dangling from one another in a series of vertical columns suspended from the ceiling. The more complex ones require aquarium pumps, troughs, and small, fired clay pellets to hold the plants in place.
Mandell has been growing things for years, but he first got his start in hydroponics when he moved from Boston to Bushwick a year and a half ago. His Boston home was a sunny apartment with south-facing windows conducive to growing all kinds of plants, but his apartment in Bushwick was darker and the windows smaller than they had been in his previous home. To continue gardening, Mandell had to purchase lights. A magazine called Growers Edge was included in the box of lights that arrived on his doorstep, and in it was an article about an environmental science and microbiology professor named Dickson Despommier (http://www.cumc.columbia.edu/dept/sph/ehs/4.html) who was doing research at Columbia University on high-rise vertical farming. “Forty-story buildings that are just farms throughout the entire building,” explains Mandell. “That hasn’t happened yet, but I read the article and got really intrigued. I thought ‘I can do this.’”

Mandell explaining the pepper-growing process.
Although Mandell has yet to construct a forty-story urban farm, he has become a passionate advocate for and an important player in the urban hydroponics movement. “Hydroponics is an important component of producing large quantities of food within an urban environment,” he asserts. “It uses less water and obviously less soil, and especially in places that have slightly toxic soil that’s a very positive thing.” Another benefit of city hydroponics is that the method involves much less weight than soil farming, so it is particularly advantageous for rooftop farming where weight, in addition to space, is a constraining factor.
Boswyck Farms (Mandell’s sights are set on expansion but so far there is just one farm, despite the plural) is still a small-scale and non-commercial project, but Mandell is moving towards increasing the production of his operation. He will soon begin to provide fresh produce to local establishments like Roberta’s Pizza, an independent restaurant off the L train in Bushwick. He is also working towards selling his crops at local farmers’ markets and eventually, when production picks up, donating five percent of his produce to local food pantries. Mandell hopes that the farm will eventually move into a larger commercial space, but the idea of living locally is one of the major forces that drives his work. The name “Boswyck” comes from what the neighborhood that is now known as Bushwick went by when it was a farming community in the 17th century.
Mandell is fiercely committed to the idea of a de-centralized food production system. His mission is to teach as many people as possible how to farm in order to accomplish this, so he has begun leading workshops out of a lab in Manhattan, teaching participants how to install their own home hydroponic systems. He hopes to soon begin installing greenhouses on rooftops in Bushwick, and to one day expand the project into the other boroughs and neighborhoods of New York.
“I have this high-in-the-sky goal of getting every rooftop in New York to be useful,” he says, and suggests that all New York roofs could (and should) one day function as gardening spaces or hubs for wind or solar energy.
Mandell collaborates with several other hydroponic farming groups in New York including the Science Barge (http://nysunworks.org/?page_id=18) and the Window Farms project (http://www.windowfarms.org/). The Science Barge is a fully sustainable traveling urban farm that doubles as an environmental education center. Its goal, according to its website, is to make New York a more sustainable city by moving it in the direction of recycling its own wastewater, generating its own power, and producing its own food. For its vegetable production (tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, lettuce, herbs) the Science Barge uses hydroponics.
The Window Farms project, according to founders Britta Riley and Rebecca Bray, “is about DIY food farming in NYC windows.” The goal of the project is to provide the masses with easy-to-use and inexpensive hydroponic farm systems to be used in offices and apartments throughout the city.
Like Boswyck Farms, both the Science Barge and the Window Farms project are focused not only on using hydroponics to grow food sustainably and efficiently, but also on sharing knowledge about this growing method through art, workshops, and public education programs.
“Teaching kids, especially, is incredibly important,” says Mandell. “It’s a cliché, but they’re our future. There are a lot of kids who are growing up in the city and have never seen food production. For them, produce comes wrapped in cellophane. The idea of it being actually attached to a plant is almost unreal.”

Eggplant, peppers, tomatoes.
In Tokyo, hydroponics has nearly replaced soil-based methods. In Australia experts estimate that 20% of the value of vegetable and floral production in the country comes from hydroponics. In Holland hydroponics accounts for about half of the value of the country’s fruits and vegetables. The hydroponics movement has also taken hold in Canada, and is becoming especially popular in greenhouse growing there. In addition, although water is the primary agent in hydroponic growing, the method uses less water than traditional farming practices. Because of this, hydroponic farming is becoming more prevalent and more significant in regions, like the Middle East and sub-Saharan Africa, that suffer from water scarcity.
But Mandell insists that in the United States, hydroponics is vastly under-utilized. The biggest advancements in hydroponics in the U.S. have come from marijuana growers, he says, but not enough has been done in urban environments. Because space is becoming more and more scarce in cities, Mandell holds that the urban environment is where hydroponics has the most potential. He believes that hydroponic farming is a tool that cities should turn to in order to address urban problems such as the limited accessibility of fresh produce, the lack of space, and the environmentally detrimental effects of transporting massive amounts of food from rural area into urban ones. The bottom line, according to Mandell, is that hydroponics is crucial for urban sustainability. “It’s not the silver bullet that will solve everything,” he says, “but it’s an option, and it’s a good option.”
He admits that the method is not perfect for every crop or for every setting. “You wouldn’t do hydroponics for wheat,” he says, “because you need acres and acres for that. But fruits, vegetables, things like that are really ideal for hydroponics, especially in urban settings. It’s all about growing the right things in the right places.”
Mandell is especially eager to insist that anyone can do hydroponic growing. “I jokingly tell people that everybody’s familiar with hydroponics because in the ’80s the Joseph company introduced Chia Pets,” he points out. “Those are hydroponics. So it’s not like it’s unfamiliar, and it’s not as if Chia Pets are complicated. You sprinkle the seeds on the pet and you water it.”
Asked about his role within the broader urban agriculture movement, Mandell is quick to respond. “I want to help people grow in any way they can,” he says, “whether it’s just a little flower box or a rooftop farm.”

The farm is operated straight out of Mandell's home.
